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Christophers 66 Mustang Restoration and Modification

Home | First day | Cool Stuff Done | Front End | Rear End | Seats | Interior | Engine Pull | Engine Compartment | Engine Install | Hydraulic Clutch | ID a T5 | T5 | Body Work | Scoops | Front Disc Brakes | Relays for Halogen headlights | Driving Lights | Aux 12V Power | IVR | First start up | Cowl Repair | New Doorskin | First Drive!!! | Primer Paint | Paint | Paint Booth | Anti-Syphon | Reassembly | Alignment | Adjustable Strut Rods | Drive shaft | Side skirts | Valves | Cooling | Exhaust | 3.55 Trac Loc Rear | Stereo | Fender rolling | Contact Us | 66 Information

 

 

Hydraulic Clutch

We mixed and matched our clutch and it worked great. Here is a great "how to" article we used to build our hydraulic clutch:
http://midnightdsigns.com/Mustang/HYD%20Clutch.htm

Parts list and suppliers:
305-B PUSH STYLE SLAVE 
http://cnc.carshopinc.com/product_info.php/products_id/13655/305-B...
OR
7/8 inch bore and 1.25 inches of travel
 
 

Do not buy the slave push rod. Make your own from a grade 8 bolt with the head cut off and shaft rounded to fit into the slave body and connect into the clutch fork with a locking nut.

3/4 MASTER CYLINDER with reservoir (size 750) 
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Wilwood-Universal-Ma...
       OR
 If you buy a CNC master cylinder, you will also need to buy the reservoir. Speedway sells the Wilwood external reservoir
OR
 
 

Clutch bracket was from Daze  http://dazed.home.bresnan.net/test
 
Another option is to make a slave bracket from a piece of angle iron and mount it to the bell housing by drilling and fastening it with grade 8 bolts. A picture of this set up is below.
 


approx cost $220

You will get 1.25 inch of travel out of this system. If you are using a modern 10 1/2 inch clutch, it will need some pre load on the clutch.
 I routed the clutch line with the speedometer cable to keep it away from the headers.

0112081037a.jpg

0112081037.jpg

t5_slave.jpg
Another option for making a slave bracket using angle iron for the bracket.

slave_kit.jpg
Another picture of the slave bracket and parts

img_0115.jpg

img00692.jpg

To properly bleed the slave of any trapped air, the slave Push Rod needs to be temporarily removed or disconnected. The slave piston needs to be moved outward until it was flush with the end/edge of the cylinder. Without moving the piston outward and pumping fluid into the slave cylinder, air will be trapped behind the piston.

Have someone depress and hold the clutch pedal while you're laying under the car with your thumb on the piston to make sure it doesn't pop out. While the pedal is still to the floor, crack open the slaves bleeder port and slowly depress the piston into the cylinder. Once it bottoms out, tighten the bleeder. Have your helper let off and again depress the clutch pedal, repeating the same procedure a few times. While the bleeder port is open and you're slowly depressing the piston, rap on the side of the slave with a box end wrench to hopefully untrap any air bubbles.

Master/Pedal adjustment:

The clutch pedal needs to be set to its highest point. Connect the clutch master linkage to the pedal making sure the master cylinder is fully extended. The linkage can later be adjusted (shortening the linkage) to change the point where the clutch engages/disengages if you want to fine tune it.

Slave Adjustment:
After the system is installed and bled, the 5/8 inch Hex bolt must be adjusted to the proper location against the clutch fork. I ended up with approx. 3/16 of an inch pre-load (Push on the fork) after the throw out bearing touches against the clutch. This put the full release of the clutch roughly between the lower 1/4 and 1/3 of the pedal stroke.