To properly bleed the slave of any trapped air, the slave Push Rod needs to be
temporarily removed or disconnected. The slave piston needs to be moved outward until it was flush with the end/edge of the
cylinder. Without moving the piston outward and pumping fluid into the slave cylinder, air will be trapped behind the
piston.
Have someone depress and hold the clutch pedal while you're laying under the car
with your thumb on the piston to make sure it doesn't pop out. While the pedal is still to the floor, crack open the slaves
bleeder port and slowly depress the piston into the cylinder. Once it bottoms out, tighten the bleeder. Have your helper let
off and again depress the clutch pedal, repeating the same procedure a few times. While the bleeder port is open and you're
slowly depressing the piston, rap on the side of the slave with a box end wrench to hopefully untrap any air bubbles.
Master/Pedal adjustment:
The clutch pedal needs to be set to its highest point. Connect the clutch master
linkage to the pedal making sure the master cylinder is fully extended. The linkage can later be adjusted (shortening the
linkage) to change the point where the clutch engages/disengages if you want to fine tune it.
Slave Adjustment:
After the system is installed and bled, the 5/8
inch Hex bolt must be adjusted to the proper location against the clutch fork. I ended up with approx. 3/16 of an inch pre-load
(Push on the fork) after the throw out bearing touches against the clutch. This put the full release of the clutch roughly
between the lower 1/4 and 1/3 of the pedal stroke.