Christophers 66 Mustang Restoration and Modification

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3.55 Trac Loc Rear

The T5 conversion is great but at freeway speed you would have to down shift to 4th to have passing power. We also wanted to upgrade the "open" rear end to a limited slip. We bought a rebuilt center chunk that has the extra ribs from a 68 that is supposed to be good for 550HP.
 Lessons Learned:
  • Autozone "loans" a slide hammer that works great for removing the axle
  • New axle bearings were pressed on the axles at the machine shop for $30 each
  • Figured out how to get out the old axle seals. Found a 1 1/4 inch PVC coupling works perfect for setting the new seal in the axle tube.
  • Was able to get the old center chunk loose with few bangs of a hammer
  • New center pumpkin went in with no problem (heavy though)
  • Found both brake wheel cylinders were leaking
  • It needed new brake shoes
  • Found there are 2 different wheel cylinders based on your build date on a 66.
  • Work on 1 side at a time when doing brakes so you have a reference.

I would highly recommend this upgrade. The seat of the pants feel is the same as a 75HP addition to the engine. I thought I wanted 3.80 gears but I feel it would have made the 1st gear too short resulting in having to shift quickly.


Parts you will need. I did not include
the 5 copper crush washers you will
need to prevent oil from leaking on
the bottom bolts of the center section.


Oil pump ($5 Harbor Freight) made
quick work of removing the oil.


AutoZone Loan A Tool slide hammer.


How I got out the old axle seal.
It was later pointed out to me
the easiest way to get the seal out
was to use the end of the axle as a
pry bar to pop it out.



Properly suppport the car before you
crawl under it.
Safety First!


Slide hammer removing the axle.



Axles before the machine shop


Going back together and rebuilding rear brakes


The look that says it all after the first drive


1 1/4 inch PVC coupling works perfect for
setting the new seal in the axle tube.




Remove the 4 bolts holding the axle in.


Removing the 10 bolts holding in the pumpkin.
Support it with a floor jack and it should break
loose with a blows from a hammer.



Axles after the machine shop.
Pressed new bearings on after
they bead blasted and cleaned them.


      Break in procedure:
1) Do not use synthetic oil with a torque sensing differential. Be sure to add a friction modifier to the oil.
2) If you have new gears, then run the car in drive on jackstands for 15 minutes and let it cool for 1 hour. Repeat. The heat up/cool down procedure is for the gears, not the limited slip.

3) If you have new gears, take it easy for the first 150 miles. For extended life change out the oil after the 150 mile break in.

4) Do a few figure 8's or circles in both directions to get oil to all the clutches.