Christophers 66 Mustang Restoration and Modification

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Here is an excellent article from Stan Peace from on the T5 history:
Links I used when doing my T5 conversion. They will answer most of your questions and explain the different options you must decide on:

All the T5 trannys look the same. They have a tag on them and the number can be referenced to this chart for its rating. You will want to look for one with a high torque rating (300 or better) .
The World Class is the correct one.
  WC and NWC both use ATF fluid. It is incorrect that gear lube will be an indicator of a NON World Class (NWC) T5. More info on this and factory manual pages:

Your auto drive shaft yoke WILL fit the T5. The drive shaft will probably need to be shortened some to have ONE INCH OF FREE PLAY. Too little and you can wreck your tranny or break the U joint and too much will cause vibration. Shorten/balance and rebuild cost $150. CHECK IT BEFORE YOU CUT IT.

A T5 yoke has the same spline count but the part that slides into the transmission is shorter. It does nothing for the 1 inch freeplay your driveshaft needs.

Consider using a T5 bellhousing and the flywheel WITH THE CORRECT IMBALANCE so you can use a 10 1/2 inch clutch. you will also need a late model TO bearing, clutch fork, late model starter and block plate

You can use the old bellhousing but you will need to modify it. You will need a 2"x1"x1" aluminum or steel block and also the fulcrum (the piece the clutch fork pivots on) out of your early bellhousing. Mustang suppliers sell it for about 40. You can then use your old clutch. You will also need to buy an adapter plate to add the 1 inch the old bell will need to mount correctly

The T5 mounting bracket is needed because the the mount is about 1 inch back and the old mount wont line up. I read of 1 person modifying the old one to get it to work but he spent a lot of time doing it.



Old School 8 Ball gear shifter on billet aluminum shaft
for the T5. Chris found knob at Good Guys Show